Thursday, May 10, 2007

Operation Tasty BUGS!


Do you think of bugs as food? A long time ago before humans learned to hunt with bows and things and still in some parts of the world bugs ARE a food. And a great one at that. Why?

  1. Feed the same diet as cows/pigs Insects generally have a higher food conversion efficiency than more traditional meats. IE they are more protein etc. some species are up to 60% Crude protein.
  2. Insects reproduce at a faster rate than beef animals, a female cricket can lay from 1,200 to 1,500 in 3 to 4 weeks.
  3. Over 1,500 species of insects are used as food by people throughout the world. There most likely will be a few edible bugs near you at all times.
  4. Insects are easy to raise. ;)
Commonly eaten insects and arachnids include grasshoppers, crickets, termites, ants, beetle larvae (grubs), moth caterpillars and pupae, spiders, tarantulas, and scorpions.

Hamburger, for example, is roughly 18 percent protein and 18 percent fat. Cooked grasshopper, meanwhile, contains up to 60 percent protein with just 6 percent fat. Moreover, like fish, insect fatty acids are unsaturated and thus healthier.

Sounds great right? but which bugs to eat? how to cook them? can they be eaten raw? The Eat-A-Bug Cookbook by David G. Gordon seems like one of the best sources on this information. It should be available at most major book stores for under 20$. I'll pick up a copy tomorrow and post some key info I find. In the mean time, bugs that I know ARE edible include, some Caterpillar, Moth Larva, Water-bugs, Cicadas, Aphids, Termites and their larva,Bee and wasp larvae/pupae, Shelled beetles and their larva, Walking sticks(!) and Crickets/Grasshoppers. I'll outline how to get specific bugs with my "catch" and how to eat them with nutritional information as I get it. :) (soon i hope!)

A great blog post about this same topic is right here.

UPDATE: After reading that aphids are sweet (because of their diet of sweet tree juices) I went out and grabbed a bunch in a bamboo basket, froze them for a while ten sifted out any bits of non bugness and taste tested about a tablespoon! They were really good! I'd love to get enough to make a loaf of bread with aphid flour only. :) It would take a while but I think it would be worth it! Bugbread is now on the list on things todo!


Bowl o' Aphids!


Closeup! There aren't many..


Yummy!

Natural Arrows

A post about making a Native American Flatbow will follow w/ pictures soon! :)

Bow and arrows are Amazing, Important inventions. They are used for hunting and making a fully working bow and arrows are one of the most fulfilling and useful things to get you back into a sense of understanding nature and ancient butt-kicking power! :) It'll give you +3 attack power and +4 distance too! :)

I'm currently collecting info and working to create a bow and arrow set based partially on Native American design. The arrow shafts are made from, Dried dead cattail reeds gathered in the spring when they have been wet, dried, wet, dried, wet for months to yield a tuff, straight, and light(! important) arrow rod.

(Note: It is hard to find information on this, one site mentioned using cattails will not work because they are to brittle, however I have found these year-dried cattails to be amazingly tuff and light. I have not fired any so I cannot report FOR CERTAIN but I can hope and will update with results after the bow is finished.)

Making a Cattail Arrow Shaft:

  1. Locate old cattails, tug out of the ground (most will come out easy).
  2. Cut a few inches above the bottom off to remove the moist, softened, bunch of leaves etc.
  3. Strip away dead leaves as much as possible.
    They will most likely be moist, place upside down somewhere to dry overnight to remove any moisture.
  4. Use a knife and cut upwards carefully towards the bottom from the top to remove the last spongy layer wrapping the reed/rod. This can be tricky, be careful not to cut into the tuff reed core. It's better to go slow at first and get a feel for this than to put a large nick into your arrow shaft and have to throw it out.
  5. Cut to about 24 inches or desired length, use the section that has the least taper (mid-top usually) with desired thickness, It's best to get them all around the same length, thickness.
  6. Use the back of the knife and lightly scrap up and down the entire length till smooth. The friction will remove stray fibrous "hairs" and "heatset" the outer side for a really smooth shaft.
  7. Optionally leave to dry again.



To finish these off we'll need some feathers for fletching, stones(or bone,etc) for arrowheads, and sinew for tying. Optionally something to color/paint your arrows.

Next We need some arrow heads.



Next We need to attach the fletching.

Bone Tools!

Bone is one of the best materials to work with. It's versatile, strong and soft, small and big, comes in a bunch of shapes, sizes, thicknesses, basically, it rocks.
Finding/getting some is the trick. It's best to get it from an animal In my case an elk. then you get meat, fat to render, tendon for sinew, fur, and bones! It really is awesome how much of the animal you can use. You can also Buy bones from any place that sells meat. Pet stores also carry a variety of bones.

A small list from various sources shows a few bone specific uses:

  • Use long leg bones for such things as pins, needles, and hooks.
  • Use thick-walled bones for dice, belt buckles, and strap ends.
  • Use shoulder blades for combs, weaving tablets, and axes.
  • Use elk ribs for Arrow shaft wrenchs
  • Use bird leg bones (turkey, goose, swan, etc.) for flutes and needle cases.
This site lists a BUNCH of great traditional tools, there uses, and what bone to use. The format is great so I won't reproduce the information here. some key items are Fishhooks, Arrow-Shaft Wrenches, Hoes and more.

For something used mainly for decoration, This site lists a TON of Maori hooks and things made from bone.

(The following is reproduced for my reference and yours ;) from This Site
Initial Preparation
  1. Remove as much meat as possible from the fresh bone.
  2. Boil the bone until the remaining meat, tendons, etc., are falling off, making sure that the water covers the bone at all times. Run ventilation fans and/or open windows! (Do not bake the bone as baking makes the bone more brittle.)
  3. Allow the bone to cool to the point where it can be handled.
  4. Trim off all remaining bits of cartilage, gristle, and exposed marrow with a knife.
  5. For hollow bird bones, clean out marrow with files.
  6. Scrub the bone under hot running water with a scrubbing pad.
  7. Allow the cleaned bone to air-dry.
  8. Repeat steps 2 to 6 if flies are showing too much interest.
Rough Shaping
  1. Use dry bone to saw. Wet bone is more difficult as it quickly gums up the saw teeth.
  2. Use a fine-toothed saw to shape the bone as close as possible to its final shape. (Fine-toothed saws are available at hobby stores.)
Fine Shaping
  1. Use wet bone to cut with a knife. If the bone has totally dried out, soak it for a day or so in water. If the bone dries out as you are working it, let it soak again for a while until it is easy to cut again.
  2. Use a very sharp knife, such as an X-acto knife, to shape the bone to its final form.
  3. Always wear some sort of thumb guard to protect the thumb you are carving towards. Leather quilting thimbles work well, but a simple leather guard can easily be sewn. Make sure it covers most of the thumb.
Finishing
  1. Bone can be worked very finely with a knife. As it is worked, it will also become smoother due to the oils from the carver’s fingers.
  2. Use dry bone to sand or file.
  3. Use an emery board, file, or sandpaper to finish off any last rough edges or to sharpen the point on a needle.
Carving Surface Designs
  1. Incise the lines of the surface design using a sharp knife on wet bone. If it is difficult to see the lines, use a pencil or let the bone dry out a little.
  2. Widen the lines by scraping along the lines using the edge of a knife, a nail, or some other like object on dry bone. This makes it possible to carefully control the degree of bone removal.
  3. If desired, use one of the historical methods of enhancing the carving:
    • paint the lines.
    • differentiate the background from the pattern with cross-hatching or other fillers


What To Make


The following items are documented at various times from the Roman period to the Renaissance.

Toiletry Articles - comb, comb case, mirror case, brush backing, ear scoop, tweezers, combination ear scoop/tweezers

Personal Articles - button, belt buckle, strap end, spectacle frame, ring, bead

Textile Implements - pin, pin beater, needle, needle case, shuttle, bobbin, weaving tablet (square and triangular), spindle whorl, rigid heddle, weaving comb, ironing board, lucet knitting tool, weaving sword.

Tools - knife handle, sword hilt, dagger hilt, sword quillon, dagger quillon, axe head, spoon, strainer, awl, pick, bucket handle, pottery stamp, toggle, line winder, line stretcher, part of a key, hinge, coin balance, apple corer/cheese scoop, cleaver, door-sneck, cleaver

Musical Instruments - flute, whistle, parts such as tuning peg and tail-piece

Pastimes - dice, gaming piece, ice skate

Miscellaneous - box/casket mount, figurine, prayer amulet, holder for straightening metal pins, seal matrix, writing tablet, stylus

The very best reference on this subject is Arthur MacGregor, Bone, Antler, Ivory, and Horn: The Technology of Skeletal Materials Since the Roman Period, published by Barnes and Noble, 1985. Not only does it provide clear information on the morphology of each type of material, it gives excellent dated examples of many of the uses to which bone was put.

Oyster Shell Fish Hooks

Hey! So I've been thinking of making some fish hooks. Some natural good materials are:

  • Metal - Hard to find and shape
  • Stone - Hard to get just right
  • Wood - Can work but not ideally strong
  • Bone - Great! One of the best!
  • Shell - Also Great! If no bone is available this can be the best!
Oyster Shell was a favorite of native Americans and it's easy to see why! It's plentiful (by the water), Durable, and holds a good edge naturally. It also lends itself well to curves.



Above is a Maori Fishhook carved from a Cook’s turban (Cookia sulcata), a common coastal sea snail.

You'll probably want to pick up a small chisel-ish tool to carve intricate designs. The basic idea is to break the shell or chisel away until you have a piece to work into a hook the size you'd like. I'll take pics and add more info soon. :) Sorry this is lite on instructions, I'm still gathering info, it's pretty hard to find. :)

Wednesday, May 9, 2007

WHY would you EAT Animal FAT?

I'm sure more than a few people are wondering something like "ANIMAL FAT?! That's full of Saturated fat!! That will give you a heart attack! ZOMG!!>?@11". This could get long so I'll just tell you true.

  1. Your body makes Saturated fat. just like every animal. The more you eat the less your body has to produce, you can overdose but you'd have to eat a TON. If you move around enough a day (ie are active :) you'll be fine.
  2. You body converts most of this directly to energy. So things like pemmican make a GREAT "energybar".
  3. You most likely will not have a heart attack from saturated fat. Trans fat yes. Saturated fat no. Think about it. What have all animals and all people before the 1950's been eating? Saturated fat. There was no margarine etc. And Heart disease was NOT the #1/2 killer in the US like it is now (after we eliminated animal fats from the diet).
  4. What about the studies saying Saturated fat is "teh devil"? Well
    1. They didn't see a difference between using trans fats and saturated fats in a study and calling it saturated. (scientists now realized the trans fats they once said were fine are now linked to! heart disease! funny ;) .
    2. The Oil business is big. Just like how the natural plant sweetener stevia is illegal to have in soda/pop as a sweetener. It's fine to use as a supplement. so it's not safe but safe as a supplement? *ahem* Sugar companies.
Remember you body has evolved over thousands of years to eat saturated animal fats. It's what cavemen ate. If it really caused heart disease we shouldn't be here today. ;)

Here are a couple great links for an explanation of what I'm talking about but much clearer with cited sources etc.

Native american diet (super rich in fats)
Know your fats (Awesome)

This says it best

The following nutrient-rich traditional fats have nourished healthy population groups for thousands of years:

  • Butter
  • Beef and lamb tallow
  • Lard
  • Chicken, goose and duck fat
  • Coconut, palm and sesame oils
  • Cold pressed olive oil
  • Cold pressed flax oil
  • Marine oils

The following new-fangled fats can cause cancer, heart disease, immune system dysfunction, sterility, learning disabilities, growth problems and osteoporosis:

  • All hydrogenated oils
  • Soy, corn and safflower oils
  • Cottonseed oil
  • Canola oil
  • All fats heated to very high temperatures in processing and frying

Bone Blade


UrbanScout.org has a Really cool post about fixing a bone blade into a driftwood hilt with pine "glue" (sap/charcoal) here. I'll add this to my list of things to make out of an elk when I get one in the peninsula. Thanks for the idea! The knife looks awesome! I wonder what it was carved with/what kind of bone it is..

Here's another bone knife.



And an amazing stone (obsidion?) knife.

Book Review: Discovering Wild Plants: Alaska, Western Canada, the Northwest

If your looking for a good GREAT book on native plants in the pacific northwest, THIS IS THE BOOK!! It has:

  • A TON of descriptions catagorized by location (!) (swamp,forest,mountains, etc.)
  • Has a clear picture of the plant PLUS a scientific illistration naming all parts of the plant!
  • Lists a description, traditional use, food use, modern use, medical use, plus MORE!
  • SOO much info. AMAZING!

So if your looking for a book in this section, don't pass this up! :)

Discovering Wild Plants: Alaska, Western Canada, the Northwest

ISBN13: 9780882403694
ISBN10: 0882403699
Price:About $30